It’s July again, and, as usual, we haven’t gotten as much done in the garden as we wanted when making all those big plans in early spring. There was that big project at work, and the kids, and then that trip, and all the rain... But take heart. A late start doesn’t mean the garden is doomed. On the contrary, a late start can be turned to your advantage. And even if you did get your crops planted early this spring, it’s time now for second sowings and filling in gaps.

July planting means that the soil is finally really warm, all danger of frost is gone, and there’s certainly no worry about working the ground too soon. And while many gardeners hurry to set out tomato plants and peppers, tempting the frosts of April and May, the cool weather early in the season actually can retard growth and maturity of many garden plants. Cool weather doesn’t kill plants, but, as a rule, cool-planted ones do much more poorly than similar plants set out just a few weeks later. And vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, peas, and radishes do best when they mature in cooler weather rather than in the dead of summer heat; both quality of flavor and quantity of harvest are improved.

Last-minute Blooms
Flowering annuals that can still be planted now include dwarf marigolds, Sundance portulaca (for quick color in hot dry places), zinnias, petunias, cosmos, begonias, asters, salvia, 10-week stocks, flowering tobacco, heliotrope, ageratum, calendula, alyssum, annual larkspurs, and sunflowers, of which there now are an extraordinary variety.

Dahlia tubers also can be planted into July, to give September and fall flowers. Gladioli give great return for little work and can be planted at two-week intervals through mid-July, which will ensure a long, staggered bloom time. Soak the corms three hours in 1 1/2 tablespoons Lysol before planting, then put them 4 to 5 inches deep, 6 inches apart in full sun. Semi-dwarf canna tubers do well now, too. Try ‘The President,’ a beautiful 3-foot high red.

Choosing Plants in Pots
If you are buying flats of annuals at garden centers, choose those that are showing color but that have many buds waiting to open. And if planting roses this later, purchase plants in containers rather than the ones in packages. They’ll transplant much better.

Moon Gardening
Want a new twist for a change? Try planting by the moon just for once this year. If you’ve procrastinated your garden anyway, a little old-fashioned superstition can’t hurt. Folklore says to sow seeds of root crops when the moon is waning, preferably in the third quarter (June 21-26, 1997; July 20-26). Above-ground crops, including leafy plants and fruit bearers, supposedly like to be planted or transplanted when the moon is waxing (June 6 to full moon on June 20; July 13 to full moon on July 19). The fourth quarter is considered a barren time, so don’t plant then (June 27-July 4; July 26-August 1). Weed instead.

July is Maintenance Time
For both garden and lawn, July is time for regular maintenance and watering. Insects can take a toll on weakened or stressed plants and there are several types to keep an eye out for. White grubs in the lawn can be eliminated with your regular lawn care program which includes white grub control for this time of year. Spider mites and Apple mites can prey on Burning bushes. Examine the undersides of the leaves carefully for these pests and use a recommended insecticide or contact a professional pesticide applicator. If you are using spray yourself, mix carefully according to directions and do not spray when winds are high or gusty. Bagworms begin to form their familiar bags now and these “bags” can do considerable damage to trees if allowed to grow. Use a recommended spray to get rid of them or seek professional help.

Watering is Critical
Lawns and landscape plantings have received more rain than usual this year, but that doesn’t mean that the need to water is gone. Even though we have had recent heavy rains, windy and hot conditions dry things out fast! Be sure to water deeply, at least an inch a week so grass plants do not develop shallow roots, weakening them in dry periods. New shrubs and small trees need special attention and watering —use a root feeder to get the water to where it can do the most good. Consider irrigation, not just for the lawn, but for flowerbeds and landscape plantings. The watering from irrigating will be more consistent and reliable than the hand-held hose method. Container plantings need watering daily as well as frequent fertilizing.

Robin Milliken is a Landscape Specialist and Master Gardener
The Master Gardener appears monthly in The Olathe Daily News.
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