|
PLANNING
IS CRUCIAL
We have all seen the results of forest trees mistakenly planted underneath
a house window or by the front door. The same mistake can be equally
unfortunate in the planning and design of a shrub border. There is so
much information out there that it is better to shop around a little
to avoid botanical disaster. Impulse buying or settling for so-called
excellent substitutes is always a mistake when it comes to buying plants.
Developing a flowering shrub border is a long term and expensive project,
and you have the right to specific information before you buy. Dont
go with the idea of bringing plants straight home. Acquaint yourself
with the nature of the plants growth, its mature size, soil preferences
and sun/shade requirements to avoid mistakes. Rhododendrons, for example,
come in both huge spreading and small slower growing varieties.
Take your time and spread the work out, if possible. A large suburban
border may take several years to create, but the process is not frustrating
since the first bushes are producing bountifully before the last go
in. This produces a sense of reward and satisfaction from the beginning.
DESIGNING THE BORDER
The first step is to lay out the shape of the border and decide the
finished shape and size. To add style to a yard, the front of the shrub
border is more successful when curved in ripples and bays. This effect
is important for borders that are enlargements of old boundary plantings
as the only way to eliminate the straight lines of original plantings.
The problem with these horticultural sweeps is to make them bold enough,
yet remain in proportion to the rest of the yard. Small curves look
accidental and ineffective while a curve too large to allow for an equally
dramatic reverse curve misses the point. The trick is to find a happy
medium.
Lay out the shape of the border with garden hose, which actually sounds
simpler than it can be. Hose can be uncooperative and laying out curves
with stiff plastic is not a job to be undertaken in cold weather or
without patience. The line and curves will be visible and adjustable,
however, and the effort will be worth the trouble. Look at the line
you have laid many times from all angles before actually digging the
ground.
You need to be sure you like the shape, that you have room enough for
the plants to expand and that it serves your purpose, whether for outline,
or screening. Look at the design from an upstairs window, if possible.
A birds eye view will also let you know if the design meshes well with
the rest of the yard. Shrub borders do not look their best floating
aimlessly, they need to be anchored to existing structural or horticultural
features.
Once the curves are correct, peg the final shape of hose down with lengths
of wire cut from coathangers. This is necessary so your line does not
get changed inadvertently by dogs or children.
PLANT ARRANGEMENT
Once the curves and size are fixed, strip off the grass or weed the
open area where the border will be. The ground can be prepared and kept
in excellent condition by laying a thick layer of compost covered with
mulch. This defines the shape immediately and makes it a pleasant feature
before the shrubs go in.
Experiment with where you want to set the plants so they will look their
best. Color code stakes (blue: tall evergreen, pink: medium flowering
shrub, green: spreading evergreen) and hammer them into the ground in
groupings, rearranging them until you like the effect. This is where
preliminary knowledge of growing habits is important. Rearrange the
stakes as often as necessary, knowing how much space to allow between
the various colors. The ultimate success of the border depends on how
the material is arranged and that can take time. Preparing the ground
in the fall and rearranging the stakes over the winter will give you
time to get the best arrangement. Once you have it down, draw a plan.
When you begin planting, use the plan, but also consider it as a guide
since things change sometimes when plants start going into the ground.
Be prepared to make adjustments without abandoning your original concept.
If you decide to skip the stakes and arrange the plant material when
it is delivered, it will be more difficult to make a calm assessment
of where the plants will look best. Dragging around heavy bushes with
roots in burlap is difficult and handling them by their necks doesnt
do them any good. The tendency is to say This will do and
thats not the best use of expensive plant material. Planting the
shrubs far apart may looks ridiculaus at first but with proper planting
and being allowed to grow at will, the shrubs will fill the open spaces
faster than you realize. Crowded plants lose their graceful form and
degenerate when having to jostle for light and air.
ACCENT TREES & PRUNING
Dont overlook small flowering trees such as dogwood and crabapple
as excellent accents in the shrub border. These specimens look best
when brought forward into the outer curves and allowed to dominate the
surrounding area. High pruning these ornamental trees of all branches
lower than five or six feet will allow room beneath for flowering shrubs
like forsythia, rhododendron, spreading yews, spiky evergreens, spirea
and hydrangea.
Even an informal border needs to be controlled by pruning. Pruning is
another area where informing yourself ahead of time will avoid disaster.
As a general rule, all spring flowering shrubs should be pruned immediately
after flowering, as they set their buds for the following year during
summer and fall. Summer and fall flowering shrubs can be cut back hard
in the spring to encourage flowering on new growth. Prune selectively
with the natural shape of the plant in mind to keep the border thriving
and under control.
Robin
Milliken is a Landscape Specialist and Master Gardener
The Master Gardener appears monthly in The Olathe Daily News.
© H&R Lawn and Landscape
Click
here for Part I - Plant a Flowering Shrub Border
Links
to other monthly columns:
|